From noon to 2.30 pm (except Saturday) and from 7.30 pm to 11.15 pm Closed Sunday and Monday. Despite its speedy bistro draw (mosaic tile, zinc counter, small library area), the Baratin does not tell salads. The best proof? The armies of fine Parisian forks (Pierre Hermé, Bertrand Grébaut and Iñaki Aizpitarte in mind) who have made their heavenly cantoche. It must be said that to put love in the mouth, Raquel Carena knows how to do it.

That night, it was killing all the way. As a starter: diced bonito delicately marinated in citrus vinegar with shallots, green beans and mesclun leaves - or voluptuous veal brains poached with lemon butter. On a plate: pleasurable shoulder of roasted lamb on a bed of spinach - or chicken Patis with onions and ginger, escorted with vegetables (potatoes, leeks, carrots, turnips). And for dessert, soft strawberry-rhubarb cake soft as a hug, put in beauty, that evening, by a savagnin of Buronfosse